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Category: Food

Setsubun: Do You Know Where Your Beans Are?

Ah, Setsubun. This special day marks the end of winter and the beginning of spring on the Japanese lunar calendar. It’s a little bit like a New Year’s party in terms of one period coming to a close while a new one starts. It is celebrated in temples and home throughout the country. There are traditional foods and traditional behaviors. One such behavior involves chasing the male head of the household out of the house while throwing beans at him and yelling “Out with the Devil!”

You can’t make this stuff up.

Setsubun comes around every year on February 3rd or 4th. It’s like the Japanese spring equinox. It’s a day to let go of winter and welcome spring. The behavior of the day is reflective of this – the alpha male of the house traditionally dresses up as an oni (devil) and his family throws beans at him while chanting “Devils out! Happiness in!!” until he runs out the front door, which is then slammed behind him. This is meant to drive evil spirits from the home and welcome good ones.

This tradition isn’t practiced so widely at home anymore. Now, celebrations (some involving bean throwing) are held at temples. At some events, celebrities and sumo wrestlers show up. Rather than having everyone chuck beans at some unlucky guy, however, these events may feature celebrities throwing prizes, money, or gold foil-covered bans into the assembled crowd.

There’s food, too (as there often is with Japanese holidays). Setsubun’s special treat is the ehomaki. It’s a long roll of sushi that hasn’t been cut (about 20cm long). It is filled with seven different items because seven is a “lucky” number, and also reflects the legendary seven gods of happiness in Japanese folklore. Every year, a direction is designated as “lucky” (this year it’s north-northwest), and the goal is to eat the entire ehomaki in silence while facing the lucky direction.

I’m not a big fan of rolled sushi, but it’s not every day you see a compass attached to your food in the supermarket.

Rolled Sushi, Ehomaki
Ehomaki, a rolled sushi traditional at Setsubun

The compass attached to each roll of sushi is supposed to help you turn in the correct direction while attempting to eat the entire ehomaki.

While I did not participate in setsubun this year (aside from buying the compass-sushi), it’s a quirky, interesting way to say goodbye to winter and welcome spring. The day also seems to coincide very closely with groundhog day in the U.S. Both are fairly ridiculous. If relying on a rodent to predict the weather for you or throwing beans at your Dad sounds like fun, that’s great. I’m going to wait until I can turn my heater off before I officially welcome spring.

Nabe: Japan’s Hearty Winter Soup

**NOTE: This has been crossposted (with some slight modifications) from jibTV.com, where I also write. I wanted to share it with those of you who do not read content at jibTV.**

Winter is cold. Winter is especially cold when you live within a culture that still doesn’t prioritize home insulation. Heaters of every variety – electric, gas, oil – are purchased in droves throughout the season and mountains of sweaters, coats, and woolly socks go out for sale. While I take advantage of all these winter survival strategies, I also like to integrate something that warms me from the inside out rather than from the outside in: food. In America, winter food consists of roasted meat, sweet pies, mashed potatoes, and chicken soup. Here, what has quickly become one of my favorite cold-weather dishes is a food with many variations that is known by just one name: nabe.

Nabe - Hearty Japanese Soup

In a nutshell, nabe is Japanese soup. Stick a bunch of ingredients in a pot, add some water, put it on some heat for a while, and eat it when it’s done. There’s not much more to it than that. There seem to be no real rules for nabe (unless you’re a stickler, I guess), but there are variations in nabe names based on the ingredients used.

The ingredients pictured above include tofu, Chinese cabbage, chicken meatballs, cabbage, thinly sliced pork, kimchi, and suiton, a coin-shaped piece of doughy stuff.

There are plenty of different kinds of nabe. There’s yose nabe, where you can literally choose anything you like and put it in the soup. Then, there’s kimchi nabe (shown pictured), which uses Korean kimchi as a base. This makes a spicy, warm soup, and you can choose your preferred level of spicyness as you go. Additionally, there’s chanko nabe, which has traditionally been eaten by sumo wrestlers. This is typically a high protein, high calorie soup. There are many different kinds of nabe – everyone can create their own favorite.

The cooking pot itself is called a nabe. Typically a heavy ceramic pot with a lid, it’s filled with the ingredients and placed over a burner. The burner is often a portable one that can be used in the middle of a table. Once steam begins emerging from the hole in the lid of the pot, your food is probably about ready to eat.

Cooked Nabe - Hearty Japanese Soup

Nabe is eaten by taking the bits you want to eat out of the pot. This means that everyone gets to choose their personally preferred pieces. Each person has their own individual bowl and can take whatever they like. It’s very much a communal dish.

Leftovers (of which there were many, with this particular pot) can be refrigerated and reheated. The pictured kimchi nabe was reheated with a little water the next morning. Egg and rice were added to make a tasty breakfast!

Nabe is fun and easy to make. It’s a wonderful winter dish that is great for sharing. There are many, many different recipes to try, or you can simply make your own! Regardless, enjoy – you’re in for a treat.

Japanese BBQ: Yes, we can (grill that)!

Food is awesome. Food is great. Food is fun. Anyone who says any differently is probably someone I can’t associate myself with. We need food to survive. We eat it every day (hopefully), and we’ve all had good and bad experiences with it. Everyone has their own preferences regarding tastes, cuisines, and cooking techniques. Most techniques are apparent throughout the world, and good old BBQ is one of them. Japanese BBQ is a little different from what Americans might think of as grill-cookin’; Japanese barbeque is very meat-on-a-stick friendly, and the Japanese will grill things you couldn’t even imagine before wolfing them down (in some cases, raw is cool too). As a result, there’s not much grey area in terms of preference for some Japanese foods: either you like them, or you hate them.

Seafood for Grilling at a Japanese BBQ

Much to the chagrin of some tourists, a lot of Japanese food is seafood. Japan is, after all, an island, which means that much of its resources come from the ocean. Fish you never knew existed can be eaten here, crustaceans of massive size captured and cooked, and even shellfish are regularly harvested from shores and reefs to be added to bowls of ramen and grills. In the foreground of the above photo are sazae, a mollusk commonly eaten as somewhat of a delicacy here in Japan. In this photo, the mollusks were still alive; they occasionally squirted water out, and recoiled when shop staff added ice to their container. In the background are large prawns already speared on sticks. The photo comes from a recent matsuri, or festival, here in Shinjuku. All of these foods (and more) were prepared for grilling on a barbeque like structure in clear view of all pedestrians walking by. Not pictured are various clams, chicken meatballs, pork, and a variety of vegetables including green peppers and onions. All of these foods are encompassed under the same word(s): yakitori (literally, grilled chicken), and kushiyaki (skewer grilled). These phrases can, mostly, be used interchangeably, but they both refer to the same thing: food on a stick.

Japanese BBQ can be spotted at festivals like these, but there’s also more personalized barbeque settings you can find. The popular yakiniku (literally, grilled meat) is essentially the Japanese version of a barbeque party; however, it’s in restaurant form. Yakiniku restaurants are everywhere in Tokyo. Inside the restaurant are usually several large booths, and in the center of the table there’s a hole. When you sit down with your party, one of the staff will bring over a portable grill already lit with hot coals and place it in the hole; voila, your own personal barbeque. From there, it’s up to you to choose your choices of meats/veggies/tofus from the menu. You cook everything yourself, so be confident in your preparation skills. Prices for these places range from reasonably cheap to pretty expensive.

Americans like myself likely feel a certain sort of nostalgia for homestyle BBQ. Maybe we all have fun memories of Dad cooking hamburgers on the grill in the backyard in summer. Small, home grills are available at some stores in Japan, but be careful where you use them. I’ve heard tales of a hamburger-grilling, unsuspecting foreigner getting the fire department called on him for using his own grill on his own balcony. Sounds like a terrible thing for neighbors to do, right?

As readers (hopefully) know, Japan has a long history. This is a country that’s been around for a while. There are a lot of people here, too. As a result, cities get crowded. Buildings are very close together, and people have to expand up rather than out if they want to find new living/working spaces. This means that fires have the potential to be extremely, extremely destructive forces. A fire from one building can move easily to another in a very short period of time. While some may argue that modern architecture and technologies can help prevent these disastrous situations, the threat still exists. As a result, home BBQ in Japan may be frowned upon.

But fear not! There are other options for you, BBQ enthusiasts! Some public places, like parks and campgrounds, have facilities just for you.

Grilling fish on a campfire, Japan

This image was taken this summer at a campground on a little island several hours to the south of Tokyo. These fish were caught, cleaned, prepared, and cooked within a matter of hours. If you’re the type who wants to build your own fire and prep your own food just the way you like it, seek out a public use place. These areas are typically far away from any buildings, and are first-come, first-served.

Keep in mind that wherever you go, there are a lot of options available for your grilling pleasure. Everything from chicken to sea urchins to cow tongue can be cooked up. Give it a shot! Trying new foods is a fun and exciting cultural experience. I’ve tried some things I would never have imagined to like that are now favorites. Conversely, I have a whole new repertoire of foods I will pass on every time. Do you have any experience in the magical world of Japanese BBQ? Horror stories? Success stories? Must-try foods? Make sure to share, so I can taste them myself!.

Go forth, and eat. If you can find it, the Japanese will grill it.

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